Put the bacon in a large pot over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is crispy and browned, about 10 minutes. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and drain it on paper towels. Add the beef to the pot, season with salt and pepper, and cook, turning the pieces occasionally, until they’re browned on all sides, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the beef with a slotted spoon and drain it on paper towels.
If necessary, pour off and discard all but 3 tablespoons of the fat in the pot. Add the onions, poblanos, and garlic to the pot; season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, remove and discard the ancho chilies’ stems. Put the ancho chilies in a clean coffee grinder, a spice grinder, or a small food processor and process until powdered, about 30 seconds. Add the ground ancho chilies, chipotle chilies, oregano, cumin, coriander, and cinnamon to the onion mixture and cook, stirring, until they’re fragrant, about 2 minutes.
Return the bacon and beef to the pot and add the tomatoes, coffee or beer, and brown sugar, along with 1½ cups water. Cover, bring to a boil, and then reduce the heat to low. Simmer the meat, stirring occasionally, for 2½ hours. (Add more water as needed if the mixture becomes dry.) Stir in the beans, cover, and continue to cook until the mixture is thick and the meat is falling apart, 30 minutes to 1 hour. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Garnish with cilantro, tortilla chips, cheddar, sour cream, and lime wedges as desired and serve. (Store leftover chili in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week.)
Note:
All-Meat, No-Beans Chili Redux: In Step 1, use 2 pounds boneless beef chuck or round, and brown it in batches. In Step 3, omit the beans.
