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Toast the gram flour over medium heat in a large, dry pan, stirring continuously, for 5 to 10 minutes, until the flour has slightly darkened in color. It should begin to smell nutty and rich. Don’t overcook the flour or let it sit unstirred; if it burns, it will slide back into exactly that bitterness that we’re trying to lose. If it begins to look brown rather than just golden, whip it straight off the heat. Let it cool slightly before proceeding, using this time to prepare any desired additions.
Combine the flour, salt, and about half of the water in a bowl and stir to form a thick paste. Season with pepper. Add all but 7 tablespoons of the remaining water and the olive oil. The batter ought to be thick but not gloppy; add the remaining water as necessary to reach the right consistency. Stir in any additions that you’re using at this point.
Preheat a small nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat, grease with olive oil, and pour in a ladle of batter — enough to form a roughly 6-inch circle. Cook for 1½ to 2 minutes, lifting the edges occasionally to prevent sticking, then carefully turn and cook for a minute or two longer. Repeat with the remaining batter, greasing the pan again each time.