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Preheat oven to 220°C / 425°F.
Whisk together flour, baking soda, and salt. Make a well in the center.
Pour in the buttermilk. Mix fast with one hand — loose, shaggy, just holding together.
Pat and shape into a round. Place in a baking dish or an iron skillet that’s lined with parchment.
Score a deep cross on top. Cover the top loosely with foil and bake for 25 minutes.
Remove foil and bake for another 10 minutes, until deep golden brown on the outside.
Remove from oven and place on a cooling rack for 15 minutes.
Slice with a bread knife or break open by hand. Serve with cold butter.