To make the damson cheese, put the damsons and 150ml cold water in a large, heavy-based pan. Put over a medium-high heat until the juices run, then cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes until soft and pulpy.

Push the pulp through a sieve into a bowl using the back of a wooden spoon to remove the skins and stones (discard). Measure the fruit pulp in a measuring jug, then return to the cleaned pan and add 350g sugar for every 400ml pulp. Heat gently until the sugar has dissolved, then bring to the boil, reduce to a simmer and cook for 1½-1¾ hours until very thick, stirring frequently and skimming off any scum from the top. Make sure it doesn’t catch on the base of the pan. When you can scrape a wooden spoon along the bottom of the pan and a visible line shows briefly, it’s ready to set.

Lightly oil 8 moulds (100-120ml each) – ramekins, plastic tubs, tea cups, jelly or friande moulds (see tip). Fill with the purée, cover loosely with baking paper and leave for 4 hours to set. Once cold, cover each mould with a dampened cellophane jam pot cover held on by an elastic band and store in a cool dry place.

For the oatcakes, heat the oven to 180°C/fan160°C/gas 4. Put both oatmeals, the caraway seeds, salt and baking powder into a mixing bowl. Put the butter and 90ml water in a small pan, then slowly melt the butter and bring to the boil. Quickly pour it onto the oatmeal mixture and mix with a wooden spoon to form a fairly stiff mixture. If it looks too dry and crumbly, add up to 1-1½ tbsp water, a little at a time.

Sprinkle some more fine oatmeal onto the work surface and gently roll out the mixture as thinly as possible without it cracking. Cut into 6cm discs using a biscuit/scone cutter and put onto 1-2 large baking sheets lined with baking paper. Re-roll the trimmings to make about 18 biscuits.

Bake for 20-25 minutes until just turning golden at the edges. Transfer to a wire rack to cool, then serve straightaway or store in an airtight tin until needed. Thinly slice the damson cheese, then serve with blue cheese and the oatcakes.