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Soak dried wood ear mushrooms in cold water until rehydrated, then drain well. This gives the salad its springy texture.
Put the garlic, spring onions, red chilli, sesame seeds and chilli flakes in a large heatproof bowl. Heat the neutral oil in a small saucepan until smoking. Carefully ladle the hot oil over the garlic mixture a little at a time, letting it sizzle and cook the raw garlic. This creates a fragrant, punchy salad.
Stir in the Chinkiang vinegar, oyster sauce, sugar, red Chinese vinegar and chicken powder.
Add the wood ear mushrooms and sliced red onion. Mix well, then leave to stand for 5–10 minutes before serving. This lets the wood ear mushroom salad absorb the dressing fully.
Blanch gai lan and serve with the wood ear mushroom salad and rice.