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Heat the oven to 160C (140C fan)/325F/gas mark 3.
Find a wide baking dish or ovenproof pot large enough to hold about 1.2 l of liquid (if in doubt, fill the dish with water, then tip into a measuring jug). Butter or grease the dish lightly.
Put the butter (or dairy-free alternative) in a medium saucepan on a gentle heat and add the sugar. Stir to dissolve.
Tip in the rice and stir to coat with the butter and sugar. Keep stirring until the rice turns semi-translucent and has started to swell slightly.
Add the milk. Scrape the bottom of the pan to dislodge any stuck grains.
Finely grate in half the lemon zest. Stir in the nutmeg, cinnamon and bay leaf, then slit the vanilla pod down its length and scrape out the seeds into the pan; drop in the empty pod, too.
Bring the milk to a very gentle simmer, then add a pinch of salt and the wine, if using. Turn off the heat and stir in the cream.
Pour the rice pudding mix into the greased dish and bake for about two hours, until set but still slightly wobbly; check on it regularly towards the end of the cooking time.
Remove and leave to cool for at least 15 minutes before serving.
Serve with seasonal fruit, jam, jarred or tinned fruit, or compote.