Warm the regular olive oil in a heavy-based saucepan that comes with a lid then, over a low heat, stir in the garlic, followed by the lemon zest. After 30 seconds or so of pushing around the pan with a wooden spoon, or whatever you use, just to make sure the garlicky zest doesn’t stick to the pan, add most of the chopped chile (saving some just to sprinkle over at the end) and stir for ½–1 minute, by which time the pan will be spicily fragrant, and the chile will become translucent orange, turning the lemony, garlicky oil a rich yellow. It’s all very Tequila Sunrise.

Turn the heat up to medium, add the chickpeas along with 3 tablespoons of lemon juice, and stir gently so that they’re slicked in the aromatic oil and flecked with chile, then cover, turn down the heat, and let cook gently for 5–10 minutes until warmed all the way through. Take the pan off the heat, remove the lid, and leave for a few minutes before smashing the chickpeas roughly with an old-school potato masher, just until you have a fuzzy rubble. Leave for a few minutes longer, so that they are warm – or even room temperature. If you want to leave them longer than 10 minutes, just put a lid on.

Just before serving add the remaining tablespoon of lemon juice as well as salt to taste, then drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil, scatter with the rest of the chile, and take to the table.