The noodles, sesame paste, Chinkiang (or Zhenjiang) black vinegar, and chili oil can be found at most Asian markets. We prefer the chewy texture of fresh noodles that are about ⅛ inch thick, but if they are unavailable, substitute 8 ounces of dried Chinese wheat noodles or spaghetti and increase the cooking time to 6 to 10 minutes. Look for sesame paste that is dark and smooth; stir before using. If Chinese sesame paste is unavailable, use unsalted, unsweetened natural peanut butter. If desired, you may substitute one-quarter of an English cucumber for the Persian cucumber. The noodles can be served as is or with additional toppings (see “Customize Your Bowl”).

Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add noodles; reduce heat to maintain very gentle simmer; and cook, stirring occasionally, until almost tender (center of noodles should be firm with slightly opaque dot), 3 to 5 minutes. Meanwhile, place 1 teaspoon sesame oil in large bowl.

Drain noodles very well in colander. Transfer noodles to bowl with oil and toss with tongs until lightly coated. Transfer noodles to rimmed baking sheet and spread into even layer. Refrigerate until cold, about 20 minutes.

Whisk sesame paste, mayonnaise, 2 teaspoons chili oil, and remaining 1 teaspoon sesame oil together in now-empty bowl. Add soy sauce, vinegar, water, sugar, 1 teaspoon garlic, and ginger and whisk until smooth. Season dressing to taste with remaining 1 teaspoon chili oil and ½ teaspoon garlic. Add noodles and toss until well combined. Divide noodles evenly among serving bowls; garnish with cucumber, scallion, and sesame seeds, if using. Serve immediately.

Customize Your Bowl

New Rules for Noodles