Place 2 racks in the oven, one in the upper third and one in the lower third. Heat oven to 350 degrees. In a large oven-safe skillet, combine the wine, 3 tablespoons sugar, the herbs, cinnamon, star anise and salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, letting the wine reduce by about a quarter, 7 to 10 minutes.
Add the pears to the pan, cut side up. Cover pan with the lid or foil. Place on the lower oven rack and roast for 30 minutes. Remove lid or foil and flip the pears. Roast uncovered for another 30 to 45 minutes, basting with the wine occasionally, until the pears are tender and easy to pierce with a fork. The firmer the pears were to start with, the longer they will take to cook through.
Meanwhile, make the cardamom crumble: In a large bowl, whisk together flour, oats, sugar, cardamom and salt. Stir in butter. Using your hands, squish mixture until coarse crumbs form. Some should be about ¾ inch in size, some smaller.
Spread topping in one even layer on a rimmed baking sheet. (You don’t have to grease it first, but you can line it with parchment for easier clean up if you like.) Bake on the upper oven rack until crumbs are golden brown at the edges, 10 to 18 minutes. Transfer baking sheet to a wire rack to cool.
When the pears are tender, transfer them to a plate and taste the wine in the pan. If it’s thin and tart, add another tablespoon of sugar, set the skillet over medium heat and simmer until the wine is reduced and syrupy, 2 to 5 minutes.
To serve, use a whisk to lightly beat the crème fraîche to loosen and smooth it. Divide pears among serving dishes and top with dollops of crème fraîche, a sprinkling of crumble and pistachios and a drizzle of red wine syrup. You can serve the pears warm or at room temperature.
