To make the syrup, put the sugar and 300ml (1¼ cups) of water in a pan, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 2–3 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves. Turn off the heat, stir in the lemon juice (which will prevent the sugar from crystallizing) and rose water, if using, and set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, put the flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Crumble in the yeast, then pour in 375ml (½ cup plus 4 teaspoons) of lukewarm water and use a whisk to mix everything together.

Beat the batter with the whisk or a wooden spoon for 5 minutes to kick-start the gluten development (this will requite some endurance, since the batter is quite thick), then cover with a damp tea towel and proof for 30–45 minutes (depending on ambient temperature) until bubbly.

When the dough is nearly ready, heat the oil in a wide, heavy-based pan to 180 °C (356 °F). To check if it’s hot enough, place the end of a wooden spoon into the oil; there should be tiny bubbles rising rapidly to the surface.

Put a teaspoon in a small glass and pour in enough oil to submerge the bowl part of the spoon. Now grab a handful of dough in your palm, squeeze a walnut-sized ball through the gap between your thumb and index finger to scoop it off with the greased teaspoon and carefully add to the hot oil.

Repeat until the oil’s surface is covered with floating balls. Fry them, turning occasionally, until golden (6–8 minutes). Then transfer with a slotted spoon into the sugar syrup. Leave to soak for 2–3 minutes, then transfer to a shallow bowl. Repeat with the remaining batter and serve warm.