Cut the leeks into 1 to 2 inch rounds and sear them in a pan over medium heat with enough oil to lightly coat the bottom. Sear for about five minutes until you can see the colour creeping around the edges, then season with salt and add the white wine or stock. Cover with a lid, turn down the heat and cook for about 10 minutes, keeping an eye on the pan so the liquid doesn’t completely reduce and they begin to burn.

If you don’t see any steam sputtering out from the sides of the lid, you can assume they’re about to start burning very quickly. Add a little more liquid if they’re not soft enough. When they’re done, turn off the heat, squeeze fresh lemon all over and they’re ready to go.

In a large saucepan or casserole add a few splashes of oil along with the carrots, onion and celery and a big pinch of salt. Sauté until just softened, about 10 minutes, making sure not to get any colour.

Add a tablespoon each of tomato paste and gochujang and cook for 2 to 3 minutes.

Then add the rinsed lentils and the stock. Bring to a simmer and leave to gently bubble away for 20 to 30 minutes, checking around the 20 minute mark to see how tender they are. I cook them uncovered and usually don’t need to add any extra liquid, but if they start to dry out before they’re ready just add a few splashes at a time.

Finish the lentils with a glug or two of good sherry vinegar, a couple knobs of butter and a big handful of chives or parsley, or both.

Gently warm the leeks before topping the lentils with them. I like to finish with a generous scoop of crème fraîche.