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Lay the aubergines on the gas flame of the hob, or on a barbecue, and leave until very soft within and black all over, turning regularly with heatproof tongs to ensure they cook evenly. Alternatively, blacken under a hot grill. Leave until cool enough to handle.
Meanwhile, put the fat in a frying pan over a medium heat and saute the onions, stirring, with a pinch of salt until soft and limp. Stir in the ginger, garlic and chillies, cook, stirring, for another minute or so, then add the garam masala and tomatoes, and cook until the tomatoes start to soften
Scoop the aubergine flesh out of the skins (don’t worry if you get a bit of skin in there, too; it will only add to the flavour) and add it to the pan. Mash with a wooden spoon or similar until fairly smooth, then leave to simmer until most of the liquid has evaporated.
Stir through the chopped coriander and a little more garam masala to taste, squeeze in the lime juice, also to taste, then check the seasoning and adjust if necessary.
Serve with rice or flatbreads