To make the fermented chilli, add the chillies, garlic, water and salt to a large sterilised Kilner jar, and leave to ferment for a week and a half outside of the fridge. It should start to bubble after a few days. Every few days open the lid to allow the built-up gas to escape.

Once fermented, strain the contents of the jar, reserving the liquid.

Blitz the chillies and garlic in a food processor until roughly chopped. Add 200ml of the fermenting liquor (discard the rest) and continue to pulse until the sauce is a coarse consistency and not totally smooth. Transfer equally between sterilised jars and keep in the fridge for up to three months.

For the sauce, heat 25ml olive oil in a medium-sized saucepan over medium heat. Add the sliced onion and a pinch of salt. Sweat off for 2–3 minutes then add the garlic. Continue to sweat off gently for a further 2–3 minutes until soft and translucent.

Add the tomato paste and dried oregano and cook for 3–4 minutes.

Add the chopped tomatoes and stir well. Continue to cook this out for 20–30 minutes until the sauce is reduced by one-third.

Add the double cream, stir well and cook for a further 15 minutes.

Transfer to a food processor or blender and blend until smooth. Pass through a fine sieve and season with salt to taste, then set aside.

Bring a pot of salted water to the boil and add the pasta and cook until al dente. (For fresh rigatoni this should only take 3 minutes. If using dried pasta, cook to the time on the packet.)

Meanwhile, heat a separate medium-sized saucepan over medium–low heat and add the remaining 25ml olive oil followed by ½ tsp fermented chilli. Add the gin next – this will flame, so be careful not to burn yourself.

Add the blended tomato sauce, stir well and bring up to a medium heat.

Next, add the cooked pasta to the warm sauce, add the butter and toss together to combine well. While you are tossing the pasta, sprinkle the grated parmesan until it’s well emulsified and smooth.

Finish by seasoning with a pinch of sea salt to taste and a splash of lemon juice, then serve immediately.