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Dry-roast rice in a small frying pan over low heat until deep golden (10-15 minutes), cool then finely grind in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle, and set aside.
Dry-roast chilli in a small wok or frying pan over low-medium heat until completely charred and dried (10-15 minutes), then finely grind in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle, and set aside.
For nuoc cham, dissolve sugar in 50ml boiling water in a small saucepan, then cool briefly (1-2 minutes). Stir in vinegar and fish sauce, and stand to cool (10-15 minutes), then stir in garlic, chilli and lime juice.
For potato crisps, heat oil to 140C. Rinse potato in a bowl under cold running water until water runs clear. Dry well with paper towels, then deep-fry in batches, turning occasionally, until light golden and crisp (2-3 minutes). Drain on paper towels and season to taste.
Combine beef with ½ tsp roasted rice in a small bowl, and season with roasted chilli and salt to taste. Mix in a third of the nuoc cham, check seasoning, then add cucumber, mint, shallot, spring onion and extra nuoc cham to taste. Serve tartare topped with watercress and with potato crisps.