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4 cups (512 g) all-purpose or bread flour

2 teaspoons (10 g) kosher salt

2 teaspoons (8 g) instant yeast, see notes above if using active dry yeast

2 tablespoons (28 g) sugar

1 ⅓ cups (300 g) cold water, or less, see notes above

1 egg

⅓ cup (78 g) milk

4 tablespoons (57 g) butter

For the egg wash: 1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water

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1. Whisk together the flour, salt, yeast, and sugar.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the cold water and the egg.

3. Heat the milk and butter together until the butter is melted. Pour this hot mixture into the cold water-egg mixture. The combined mixture should be perfectly lukewarm. Add it to the flour bowl and stir with a spatula till you have a sticky dough ball. Drizzle a teaspoon or two of olive oil over the dough and rub to coat — this prevents a crust from forming on the dough during the rising.

4. Cover bowl and let rise in a warm area (see notes above) for 2 to 3 hours or until doubled. Alternatively, stick bowl in the fridge immediately and let it rise overnight or for 12 to 18 hours.

5. Cover a work surface lightly with flour. Deflate dough, turn out onto work surface, and divide into 8 to 10 equal portions (use a scale and weigh each roll if you want perfectly even rolls: about 128 g each for 8 rolls and 102 g for 10 rolls). Using as much flour as necessary, roll each portion into a ball, and place on a parchment-lined sheet pan or two. I have an extra-large sheet pan (15x21x1) that I use to fit all 8 or 10 rolls on at once. (Note: If you refrigerate the dough, you can deflate it immediately after taking it out of the fridge … no need to let it come to room temperature first.)

6. Let rise until the rolls puff and feel light to touch — 30-45 minutes roughly. Preheat the oven to 425ºF.

7. Brush rolls with egg wash. Bake 15 to 20 minutes or until golden all around. Transfer rolls to wire rack to cool completely.

**4-5 hour process. Dough can be made the night before.