Take the near-empty tahini jar and add roughly half the amount of lemon juice (or wine vinegar). Drop in the garlic and mix, then add two tablespoons of water and mix again until smooth, pushing any tahini from the sides of the jar into the sauce. Add a little more water at a time, mixing until smooth after each addition, and repeat until the dressing has the consistency of double cream. Season with a pinch of salt to taste and serve. Keep any leftovers in the fridge, where they will last for up to a week.

To make the braised chard, aubergine and chickpeas, put two frying pans on a medium heat and pour two tablespoons of olive oil into each.

In one pan, fry the aubergine cubes on one side, until browned, then turn, cook until nicely browned all over and cooked through, then take off the heat.

In the other pan, fry the sliced garlic just until it turns a light, nutty brown, then quickly lift it out of the pan and set aside to use as garnish later.

Stir the chopped chard into the hot oil left in the garlic pan, add the chickpeas, fried aubergine, a splash of water, the sumac, lemon juice and dill or lovage seeds, if using, then stir in the ground coriander and chilli flakes to taste, cover the pan and cook for about eight minutes, until the chard is wilted and tender.

Lift off the lid, cook until any juices have evaporated, then spoon on to a platter and top with lots of the tahini jar sauce, the crisp garlic and, if you like, an extra sprinkling of sumac.