Trim and finely sliced the spring onions, both the white and the green parts.

Wash and trim the spinach, then finely slice it stalks and all.

Put a tablespoon of the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat, then fry the onions, stirring, for about 10 minutes, until softened.

Add the spinach and salt, turn up the heat slightly and fry, stirring, until completely wilted and dried out (if using defrosted spinach, cook just until it’s well mixed in and dry).

Stir in the pul biber, then spread out the spinach mix on a large plate or tray.

Once cool, roughly chop the fresh herbs and stir them into the spinach with the nuts, if using, and crumbled cheese. (This can all be done well in advance, because, once made, the filling will keep well in the fridge for a few days).

Whisk the egg, yoghurt and remaining olive oil in a small bowl.

Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6, and grease a round, 24cm-wide ovenproof pan (or any baking tray wider than that) with a little oil.

Carefully unfold the pastry and cut it into long rectangle-ish shapes (yufka is often sold in large circles, in which case if need be cut these in half to make half-moons, or, if it’s easier and you have only a small work surface, quarter-moons).

Filo may come in smaller rectangles, which can be used whole – just lay one on a clean work surface, and keep the rest covered until use.

Brush one pastry rectangle at a time with the egg and yoghurt mixture, then spoon a line of the filling down one of the long sides (or, if it’s a half moon, down the flat edge), leaving a small border around the edges.

Roll up into a long, moderately tight sausage (don’t worry if it cracks slightly), brush with more egg-and-yoghurt mix and coil into the centre of an ovenproof pan – again, if it cracks as you coil it, it’s not the end of the world.

Repeat, adding each sausage to the end of the coil, until all the filling is used up.

Scatter with the seeds, if using, then bake for 25 minutes, or until golden.

Leave to cool slightly, or completely, before slicing and serving.