Heat the olive oil in a Dutch oven or large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium high heat.

Add the ground beef in large crumbles, sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper, and cook, undisturbed, until deeply brown and caramelized on one side, about 5 to 7 minutes.

Remove the meat with a slotted spoon and transfer to a plate or large bowl.

Repeat the browning process with the pork and transfer the browned pork to the plate with the beef.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the onion, carrots, celery or fennel, and the remaining ½ teaspoon kosher salt, and stir, scraping up any browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pot.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are golden, about 20 to 25 minutes.

Add the garlic, tomato paste, and doenjang, and cook, stirring frequently until the tomato paste turns brick red, about 3 to 4 minutes.

Add the powdered chillies, cinnamon, and nutmeg and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds to 1 minute.

Add the crushed tomatoes, and cook, stirring frequently, until the tomatoes are reduced by half and are starting to fry in the oil, about 8 to 10 minutes.

Add the white wine and the reserved browned beef and pork, and, using a wooden spatula or potato masher, start to break up the meat into tiny crumbles.

Continue to break the meat into crumbles while the wine is cooking down, about 4 to 5 minutes.

Stir in the chicken stock, milk, and bay leaves, and bring to a simmer.

Reduce the heat to low, partially cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat is meltingly tender and the sauce has reduced by about one third, about 2 to 2½ hours.

Enjoy with egg pappardelle, rigatoni (or, any short, ridged cut of pasta), or spoon over creamy polenta.