Prepare the chicken by trimming any visible fat – set it aside for later. Rub the chicken all over with generous pinches of coarse sea salt.

Place the chicken in a large pot, wide enough to fit the thighs in a single layer. Pour in just enough of the water to submerge the chicken.

Add half the garlic, ginger, pandan or lemongrass and spring onions to the pot and bring to a rolling boil, then turn the heat down to a bare simmer.

Cook for 10 minutes, skimming off any scum. Turn the heat off and let the chicken sit in the hot water, covered, for another 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, render the chicken fat by cooking over moderate heat in a pan. Discard the solids.

Once the chicken is cooked, remove and place straight into a large bowl of iced water.

Combine the rice with 250ml of the chicken stock, the rendered chicken fat, sesame oil, the remaining ginger, garlic, pandan and spring onion. Season with fine sea salt. Cook in the rice cooker or on the stovetop.

To make the garlic-chilli sauce, pound all the ingredients together using a pestle and mortar or whizz in a small blender until you get a fine paste.

Make the ginger-garlic sauce by combining the ginger, garlic, sugar and salt in a small heatproof bowl. Heat the oils in a small pan and pour over the mixture, then stir in the chicken stock.

De-bone and slice the chicken, then drizzle with the remaining teaspoon of sesame oil and soy sauce.

To serve, arrange the cut chicken and cucumbers over the warm rice, alongside your various sauces and little bowls of chicken broth. Garnish with the fresh coriander.