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Place chopped chocolate in a medium bowl, add vanilla, and suspend a large, single-mesh sieve over the top. Whisk sugar, salt, espresso powder, cocoa powder, and cornstarch together in a 3-quart stainless steel saucier. Add egg yolks and roughly ½ cup of the milk and whisk until smooth before adding the rest of the milk. Cook over medium-low, stirring gently with a whisk until hot to the touch; about 6 minutes.
Increase heat to medium and continue whisking gently until thick and bubbly, about 5 minutes (if it's not bubbling by then, feel free to crank up the heat). When you see that first bubble, set a timer and continue whisking exactly 90 seconds. Immediately pour into the sieve, pressing with a flexible spatula until custard passes through. Fold until chocolate has melted into the custard. Covered with a heavy towel, can be held at room temperature for 30 minutes before pouring into pie crust or tart shells.
Cool 1 hour at room temperature, then cover loosely in plastic and refrigerate to an internal temperature of 60°F maximum (16°C), about 3 ½ hours, before topping with whipped cream. Makes enough for one 9- inch pie or 30 2-oz tarts.