By Lisa Donovan

Total Time: 1 hour 40 minutes, plus cooling

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cook Time: 1 hour 25 minutes, plus cooling

Ingredients

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Yield: 6 to 8 servings

2garlic cloves, smashed or cut in half

Kosher salt, such as Diamond Crystal

2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature, divided

2 cups/500 milliliters heavy cream

4 to 5 thyme sprigs, plus 2 tablespoons and 1 teaspoon thyme leaves

1½ to 1¾ pounds Yukon Gold potatoes (6 large or 7 to 8 medium), well-rinsed

Black pepper

1whole nutmeg, for grating

⅓ cup shredded Gruyère

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Preparation

1. Step 1

   Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Prepare a 9-by-13-inch baking dish or pan: Sprinkle 1 garlic clove with a pinch of salt and rub it around the bottom and sides of the dish. (Reserve the garlic clove to use in the steeped cream.) Spread 1 tablespoon of butter over the bottom and sides to coat.

2. Step 2

   Steep the cream: In a small saucepan, combine cream, thyme sprigs, the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter and both garlic cloves. Heat the mixture over medium until the cream starts to steam and ripple. Reduce heat to very low and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and let steep while you prepare the potatoes.

3. Step 3

   Remove any eyes from the potatoes, but do not peel them. Slice the potatoes crosswise into ⅛-inch-thick slices. (A mandolin is the best tool for this job.) Do not rinse the potatoes after slicing; the starch is important to thicken the cream.

4. Step 4

   Strain the cream into a liquid measuring cup or other spouted container.

5. Step 5

   Arrange a single, slightly overlapping layer of potatoes evenly on the bottom of the prepared dish. Drizzle the center with 2 tablespoons of the cream, sprinkle evenly with salt (a scant ½ teaspoon), a few hearty grates of nutmeg and a couple cracks of black pepper. Evenly arrange another layer of potato on top of that layer, drizzle with another 2 tablespoons of cream in the center and sprinkle with another scant ½ teaspoon salt and 2 teaspoons of picked thyme leaves. Repeat each of these layers once more until you have four layers. Arrange the potatoes in a fifth and final layer overlapping in pretty scallop formation. Pour the remaining cream over the top and sprinkle with a final ½ teaspoon of salt and a little nutmeg.

6. Step 6

   Bake the potatoes, uncovered, for 40 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the Gruyère with remaining 1 tablespoon thyme leaves and set aside.

7. Step 7

After 40 minutes, remove from the oven. Sprinkle evenly with the Gruyère mixture and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, until browned and bubbly on top. Let cool in the pan for 20 minutes before serving.

Notes from other cooks

Slice the potatoes directly into the cream then transfer to the baking dish. Not only will this allow the pieces to coat more thoroughly and prevent dryness in the middle, but the completed dish is creamier.

LESS NUTMEG

You could add a layer of sliced carrots or sweet potatoes or turnips or parsnips if you like and flavor the cream to your own taste

Steep 6-8 sliced garlic cloves in cream with salt, 5-bay ground pepper, and nutmeg for at least 30 minutes; stirring so it doesn’t stick. Peel potatoes and slice paper thin. Don’t bother ‘arranging’ them in the baking dish, just layer them and don’t leave gaps. Test the cream, it should have the same salinity as sea water. Pour liquid over potatoes and bake until bubbling over. No cheese.