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Preheat the oven to 350 F (180 C or gas mark 4)
In a large mixing bowl, add semolina, chickpea flour, yogurt, cabbage, peas, onion, scallions, coriander leaves, chillies, salt, garlic, turmeric, and lemon juice and mix well.
Heat the oil in a small pan and fry the curry leaves, mustard and seasme seeds until golden.
Pour the oil and add it to the semolina-vegetable batter, along with half of the tempered curry leaves and seeds. Mix well. Save the remaining leaves and seeds for the topping.
Add the baking soda and ENO to the batter. Mix to combine and pour into a 9-inch aluminium cake pan. Smooth the top with a flat spatula, add the remaining curry leaves and seeds, and send to bake immediately.
Bake in the oven for 1 hour and 10-15 minutes (middle shelf). Always check with a fork and make sure it comes out clean — indicating the handvo is cooked through.
Let it cool for at least 30-40 minutes in the cake pan before removing and serving.