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Heat the butter and oil in a frying pan over a medium heat, add the leeks, then turn up the heat to medium-high and cook for 15-20 mins, stirring occasionally until lightly browned. Remove to a bowl and leave to cool.
Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Tip the flour into a bowl and add the leeks, bicarb, thyme, grated cheese and 1½ tsp salt. Pour in the buttermilk and use a wooden spoon to bring everything together.
Briefly knead the dough on a lightly floured work surface to just to bring it together into a ball. Transfer to a baking tray dusted with flour. Slash a cross into the top of the dough ball, then bake for 30-35 mins until the loaf is golden brown and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom.
Serve the soda bread warm, cut into thick slices and slathered with some salted butter.