Unless your bread is already rock hard and crunchy, heat the oven to 120C (100C fan)/gas ½. Slice the bread thickly (about 1½cm), then spread it out on a baking tray.

Put in the oven for about an hour, turning once halfway, until dry and crisp, then remove and leave to cool.

Meanwhile, heat half the oil in a frying pan on a medium-low heat and saute the leek until soft and limp, but not brown.

Scoop into a medium bowl. Squeeze as much water out of the spinach as possible, then roughly chop.

Heat the rest of the oil in the same pan, add the garlic and fry for a minute or so, until fragrant. Stir in the the spinach, fry until the pan is dry, then mix into the leek bowl and season

Beat the eggs thoroughly in a jug, then whisk just enough of them into the creme fraiche to loosen it.

Once that’s thoroughly combined, tip back into the jug, add the milk, beat again, then season generously with salt and nutmeg.

To assemble, grease a baking dish that’s just large enough to hold the bread in two layers, then spread half the greens and a third of the grated cheese in the base. Top with half the bread, then repeat, keeping back the last of the cheese for later.

Pour the custard all over the top of the second layer of bread (it should be all but submerged), cover and chill, ideally with something heavy on top to weigh it down and compress.

Leave for at least an hour, though overnight is fine.

Heat the oven to 160C (140C fan)/325F/gas 3.

Take the strata out of the fridge and sprinkle the remaining cheese all over the top.

Bake for about 50 minutes, until golden on top, then remove and leave to cool slightly before serving.