You can prepare this ahead of time (and you should, too, if you want to get the smell of garlic off your hands before the festivities begin) - the day before, or even up to a month in advance (in which case, wrap, freeze and bake straight from frozen, though, if you do so, add five to 10 minutes to the cooking time). In both cases, wrap it well in foil before storing.

While day-old bread is easier to butter, it must still be soft enough to absorb large quantities of butter (anything too dense or crisp will repel it) and robust enough to maintain its structural integrity once soaked.

Cut deep, thick slits into the loaf - about 2 cm apart is ideal - but do not cut right through it.

Put the butter (salted or unsalted, up to you, but remember to season if using the latter) in a bowl, anchor it to a work surface using a damp tea towel, then beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until softened.

Peel and crush the garlic to a paste using a garlic crusher, a pestle and mortar or the flat of a large knife.

Trim the dry ends off the parsley stalks, then wash the rest of the bunch and shake dry. Finely chop the leaves and soft stems.

Stir the garlic and herbs into the softened butter, then mix in the cheese.

Add a squeeze of lemon and, if you're using unsalted butter, a pinch of salt.

Divide the butter between the slits cut into the bread, being careful not to tear them apart, then wrap the loaf in foil and store in the fridge or freezer.

When you're ready to cook, bake the wrapped loaf at 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas mark 7 for about 20 minutes, then unwrap, sprinkle with the remaining cheese and bake unwrapped for five minutes more.