serves 6 to 10

1 (¼-ounce) envelope unflavored gelatin powder

¼ cup water

3 cups heavy cream, divided

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons honey, plus more for garnish

1 cup buttermilk (see page 14)

1 cup sour cream

½ vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped (optional)

Pinch of kosher salt

6 ounces fresh raspberries

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar, or fresh lime or lemon juice

Panna cotta is the ultimate low-fuss, high-reward dessert.

It's a bit like a slice of pizza: even when it's mediocre, it's still pretty good, but when it's great, it's transcendent.

To qualify as such, it's gotta be barely set and just sweet enough. It should go without saying that the quality of the dairy is important here, but as anyone who's opened a fresh carton of heavy cream and licked the top knows, any heavy cream, without even trying, is spectacular.

While these can be made in any small bowl or glass you own, aim for short and wide as opposed to tall and thin for the fastest chilling and best eating experience.

NOTE Panna cotta translates directly to "cooked cream," but the funny thing is that the cream in a panna cotta should never be cooked, as that would change the flavor of the cream. Isn't that funny?

I mean, not funny ha-ha, but, you know.

1 Sprinkle the envelope of gelatin over the water and let sit 2 or

3 minutes to soften and hydrate (so that it doesn't clump).

1. Add the squishy gelatin to a small pot along with ½ cup cream and ½ cup honey. Heat over low heat, swirling the pot until the gelatin is totally dissolved, making sure not to simmer.

2. Gently whisk the buttermilk, sour cream, vanilla, if using, remaining 2½ cups cream, and a pinch of salt in a large bowl.

3. Slowly whisk the warm gelatin mixture into the buttermilk mixture, taking care not to whisk too hard or else it'll trap air bubbles (you don't want that). Divide the mixture among 6 to 10 glasses. Chill until the panna cotta is set, at least 1 hour.

4. Meanwhile, place the raspberries, vinegar, and remaining

2 tablespoons honey in a medium bowl. Using a fork, crush the fruit to release the juices. Serve the panna cotta topped with the crushed raspberry mixture, additional honey, or nothing at all.

DO AHEAD The panna cotta mixture can be made 5 days ahead; it keeps well in a plastic container and can be warmed to a liquid, poured into individual serving glasses, and chilled before serving.

AFTER