First, make up the stock in a jug. (I don't use homemade, but just add good stock concentrate or bouillon powder to boiling water). And use slightly less stock concentrate or powder to water than advised on the packet, to ensure that the saltiness is kept at bay. Add the saffron, stir, and set aside for a moment.

In a shallow, heavy-based pan or flameproof casserole, about 26cm /10in diameter and — importantly — that has a lid, warm the garlic oil over a medium-low heat, then add the chopped shallot and cook for a couple of minutes, stirring. You don't want this to colour. If using an onion instead of a shallot, you may need to cook it for nearer 5 minutes.

Turn up the heat and add the barley, stirring it in the hot pan for a minute, then add the vermouth or wine and stir again.

Add the hot saffron stock, clamp the lid on, then turn the heat down to low and let the orzotto simmer gently for 20-30 minutes, or until the barley is cooked through and tender and most of the liquid absorbed. Do add a little extra boiling water if the liquid is absorbed before the barley is tender enough. Remove the lid, stir and take the pan off the heat; if you wanted, you could let it cool now, cover, refrigerate and leave it for a day or two. Otherwise, stir in the Parmesan and season to taste. Should you fancy adding mascarpone, now would be the time to do it.