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Pour the cream into a saucepan and add the garlic, rosemary, thyme, lemon zest and a grating of nutmeg.
Season well with salt and white pepper, then set over a medium-low heat and bring to a gentle bubble for about 10 minutes, to infuse and thicken.
Scoop out and discard the garlic and herbs.
Melt the butter in a frying pan on a medium heat, chuck in the sliced onions and fry for four to five minutes, until softened.
Add the cavolo nero, season generously and saute until the cabbage wilts. Take off the heat.
Arrange the thinly sliced potatoes in a layer in the bottom of a deep 9cm x 12cm baking dish.
Top with a layer of the onions and cavolo nero, then pour over some of the cream mixture and season.
Top with slices of smoked trout and a sprinkling of chopped dill, then sprinkle over some cheese.
Repeat the layering process until you reach the top of the baking dish, making sure the final layer is potatoes topped with cream and cheese.
Bake at 170C (150C fan)/340F/gas 3½ for an hour and 45 minutes, or until soft all the way through.