To make the red curry powder, place the curry leaves in a frying pan over a medium–high heat and cook gently for about 2 minutes. Reduce the heat a little and cook for another 1–2 minutes until they are dry and toasted, but not browned. Allow the leaves to cool completely, then combine them with the remaining spices and grind to a fine powder. Store in an airtight container.

For the rest, use a cleaver to chop each chicken thigh across the bone into two or three pieces, depending on size. Set aside.

Prepare the pounded rice mix, which will make the gravy nice and thick. Tip the rice into a small frying pan and gently toast over a low heat for 2–3 minutes until it just begins to colour. Transfer to a bowl and set aside to cool.

Add the coconut to the pan and toast, stirring constantly so it doesn’t burn, for 2–3 minutes until it is an even dark brown colour. Add to the bowl with the rice.

Using a mortar and pestle, pound the rice, coconut, bird's eye chillies, cardamom pods and cloves to a fine consistency. Add a splash of water near the end to make a paste. Rub this mix through the chicken and let it sit in the fridge for an hour or so.

Combine the spice mix ingredients, massage into the chicken and set aside for another hour. You can do this the day before and leave it overnight in the fridge if preferred. If you are just leaving it for an hour, room temperature is fine.

Preheat the oven to 160°C. Mix all the remaining ingredients through the chicken, making sure you season well with salt and pepper. Transfer to a shallow baking dish or casserole dish that is large enough to fit everything snugly in a single layer.

Cover closely with a layer of baking paper, then seal with foil or a lid, and place in the oven. Bake for 80–90 minutes until the chicken is cooked through, checking it every half-hour and giving it a good stir.