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Preheat the oven to 400 F (about 200 C).
Pare the hard stem of the cauliflower, discarding only the outer layers along with any wilted green leaves. Quarter the cauliflower, separate the florets from the stem and arrange the florets in a basket or colander that can be fitted over a pot (or a steamer, if you have one).
Place the stems in a pot and add water to cover. Sprinkle with some salt and bring to a boil. Place the florets on top, cover and steam for about 15 minutes, or until the florets are tender. The stems should be tender too. If not, boil a few minutes more.
Drain the stems and pat dry with kitchen paper. Drop them in a food processor together with the garlic and milk and process to get a smooth paste. Mix with the béchamel, add Feta cheese and plenty of freshly ground pepper. Stir, taste and adjust seasoning.
Brush the pan with olive oil and sprinkle with half the breadcrumbs and seeds. Lay the cauliflower florets over the crumb and seed mixture and drizzle lightly with olive oil. Top with the béchamel mixture, sprinkle with the rest of the crumbs and seeds, drizzle with olive oil and bake for about 30 minutes, or until golden and sizzling. Let cool slightly, serving warm or at room temperature.