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Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9 x 5-inch loaf pan and line it with a strip of parchment paper.
In a large mixing bowl, sift or whisk together the flour, sugar, salt, baking soda and cardamom.
In another bowl (or in a large measuring cup), whisk together the buttermilk (or milk + yogurt), the oil, eggs and grapefruit zest.
Make a well in the dry ingredients, pour in the wet mixture, then stir together until just combined.
Scrape the batter into the prepared loaf pan and bake until golden brown on top and a toothpick comes out slightly sticky, with just a little bit of moist crumbs sticking to it, about 50-60 minutes.
Remove the cake to a cooling rack, and while it’s cooling, whisk the icing ingredients together, adding a little more or less liquid as needed to make a thick but spoonable mixture.
If you’d like the icing a little more sour than bitter, add a pinch of citric acid to it, and once the cake is lukewarm, drizzle it on.
If you’d like, sprinkle a little more crushed pink peppercorns on top.