Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400ºF (200ºC). Rub a 10-inch ceramic tart or quiche pan (or a 9-inch pie or cake pan) with the 1 teaspoon butter and place on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips.

Combine the pitted and stemmed cherries with the brandy or whiskey in a medium bowl and set aside while you make the batter, tossing a few times.

In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until smooth. Push the almond, oat and rice flours and the sugar and salt through a strainer directly into the egg mixture, adding back any bits that get caught in the strainer. Whisk until very smooth, then whisk in the melted butter and vanilla until smooth. Gradually whisk in the milk and heavy cream. The consistency will be that of a thick crepe batter. The batter can be made a day ahead and chilled overnight. If it separates, whisk it to recombine.

Pour the batter into the pan and arrange the cherries over the batter. Drizzle any cherry/brandy juice over the top.

Bake the clafoutis until puffed and golden and a toothpick inserted near the center comes out clean, 30–35 minutes. Remove and let cool for at least 20 minutes. Sift a bit of powdered sugar over the top if you like just before serving.

Serve the clafoutis warm scooped into bowls, or at room temperature cut into wedges on plates. Top with crème fraîche or whipped cream if you like.

Leftovers can be refrigerated airtight for up to several days; reheat prior to serving if you like.