Strip and discard the husks from the corn, then snap each cob in half. Strip off the kernels with a sharp knife (it’s easiest to do this in a shallow bowl, to limit escapees), then cover put in the fridge while you make the stock.

Firmly scrape the knife down the length of each cob into a bowl to extract as much juice and fibre as possible from all sides.

Spoon this into a clean square of muslin (or a thin tea towel), then squeeze all the juice out into a small bowl. Discard the dry fibres inside the cloth.

Put the cobs in a pan with the bay, if using, cover with a litre of water and bring to a simmer. Turn down the heat until the water is barely bubbling, then leave to cook and infuse for 90 minutes.

Strain the corn stock into a pan and set aside.

When you’re ready to make the chowder, melt a tablespoon of the butter in a medium pan over a medium-low heat, then fry the shallots and chilli, if using, until softened and beginning to brown.

Add the potatoes, strained corn stock, the fresh corn and the tomatoes, if using, bring to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are soft.

While that’s cooking, tip the drained tinned corn into a clean tea towel and dry it well. Melt the remaining tablespoon of butter in a small frying pan over a high heat, then fry the tinned corn until it starts to char.

Once the potatoes are cooked, transfer about a quarter of the soup mix (don’t include any of the tomatoes) to a second pot or bowl, then puree it.

Stir this back into the pan, then add the cream, the charred corn and the reserved corn juices, and season to taste.

Add a squeeze of citrus juice, if you think if needs it.

Serve the chowder warm or chilled, and with chives or coriander snipped on top.