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Toast wheat berries in Dutch oven over medium heat, stirring often, until fragrant and beginning to darken, about 5 minutes; transfer to bowl.
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in now-empty pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add cremini mushrooms and salt, cover, and cook until mushrooms have released their liquid, about 5 minutes. Uncover, increase heat to medium-high, and cook until mushrooms begin to brown, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to plate.
Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty pot over medium heat until shimmering. Stir in tomato paste and cook until slightly darkened, about 2 minutes. Stir in sherry, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until nearly evaporated, about 2 minutes.
Stir in wheat berries, broth, water, thyme, bay leaf, and ground shiitakes and bring to simmer. Cover, reduce heat to low, and cook until wheat berries are tender but still chewy, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Discard bay leaf and thyme sprig.
Off heat, stir in cremini and any accumulated juices, arugula, and lemon zest. Cover and let sit until greens are wilted, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.