HAJAROV PILAV Emmer is an early variety of wheat that cooks up quickly; it has an inviting homey taste and is a staple in Armenia. Farmers are starting to grow it again in North America. Here it is used in a dish that is a cross between pilaf and risotto. You can make this with just mushrooms, or you can include a little ground meat. Instructions for both are given below. SERVES 4 TO 6

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2 tablespoons sunflower or vegetable oil

2 tablespoons butter-ghee or butter (1 tablespoon if using meat)

2 medium onions, thinly sliced (about 1 cup)

½ pound ground pork, beef, or lamb (optional)

½ pound (14 pound if using meat) mushrooms, chopped: cremini, button, or portobellos (about 4 cups)

2 teaspoons dried thyme

1 cup (scant ½ pound) emmer wheat berries, washed well and drained

2½ cups water or light broth

1½ teaspoons sea salt, or to taste (less if using salted broth)

Generous grinding of black pepper

2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon or mint, or substitute 2 teaspoons Mint Oil

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1. Place a wide heavy skillet or heavy pot over medium heat. Add the oil and butter; when the butter melts, swirl to coat the pan. Toss in the onions and cook until translucent.

2. Add the meat, if using, the mushrooms, and thyme and cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat has changed color and the mushrooms are starting to soften, about 5 minutes.

3. Add the emmer and water or broth and bring to a boil. Add the salt and bring back to a boil, then lower the heat slightly to maintain a strong boil and cook for 5 minutes. Cover the pan, lower the heat, and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the emmer is very tender and cooked through. The finished dish should be slightly soupy, like a very thick risotto.

4. Taste and add salt if needed and the pepper. Stir in the herbs or oil. Serve hot or warm, with yogurt on the side, and the herb plate if you like.