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1.7 oz (50 g) mild dried chilies such as guajillo or puya

3.5 oz (100 g) garlic, about 2 heads, cloves separated and peeled

7 oz (200 g) shallots, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

¼ cup (30 g) dried shrimp, medium size

¼ cup (60 ml) tamarind paste, store bought or homemade

3 Tbsp + 1 tsp (50 ml) fish sauce

⅓ cup + 1 Tbsp (80 g) palm sugar, finely chopped, packed

1 tsp (5 ml) fermented shrimp paste, optional

¾ cup (180 ml) neutral oil

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1. If dried chilies feel dusty, dunk them for just a few seconds in cold water and dry them off on paper towel. Cut them into large chunks with scissors and remove the seeds and pith to reduce spiciness. If you want a spicier chili paste, you can leave some of the seeds in.

2. Toast the dried chilies in a dry skillet or wok over medium heat, stirring constantly, until they are charred in some spots and smell smoky. Remove from the pan. In the same pan, add the garlic and shallots and stir constantly over high heat until charred spots form. Remove from pan.

3. In a coffee grinder, grind the dried chilies into a powder, then add the dried shrimp and grind until fine.

4. In a food processor, add all ingredients except the oil and grind into a fine paste, adding the oil gradually as needed for the food processor to grind more effectively. Scrape the sides down occasionally. Grind until you have paste that's mostly fine but it does not need to be smooth.

5. Transfer the chili paste into a wok or skillet along with any remaining oil. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, for about 20 minutes to cook the herbs and to thicken the paste to a consistency of a spread.

6. Store in a glass jar, and it'll keep in the fridge for a few months or in the freezer indefinitely.