Preheat the oven to 350°F (175ºC) and set a rack in the center. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a large saucepan, combine the butter and peanut butter. Set over low heat and whisk occasionally as the butter and peanut butter melt together. When they’re about 50 percent melted, remove from the stove and let the residual heat finish the job.

Add the granulated sugar, brown sugar, and salt; whisk into a thick, soft paste. Add the vanilla and egg and immediately whisk. The mixture will seize up, but keep whisking until it’s nice and light.

Add the black cocoa, baking soda, and baking powder. Switch to a silicone or flexible rubber spatula and fold until completely combined into a glossy mixture.

Add the flour and chocolate chips and fold, really getting around the sides and bottom of the pan, until it’s just combined but not overly mixed.

Use a cookie scoop to portion five scoops of dough onto one of the prepared baking sheets, leaving 2 inches (5cm) between each scoop.

Slide the baking sheet into the oven and set a timer for 12 minutes, turning the sheet around at 6 minutes, until the cookies are puffy and slightly spread.

While that first batch bakes, scoop the second batch on the other baking sheet and slide it in as soon as the first one comes out.

As soon as a sheet comes out of the oven, lift it a few inches above the counter and let it drop. Repeat two more times to flatten and spread the cookies, then let them cool completely on the baking sheet, about 1 hour.

Casey Elsass