Bring water to a boil in a wok or large pot fitted with a bamboo steamer or steaming rack. Thinly slice the garlic. Trim and peel the ginger, reserving the peels and trimmings. Cut the dark green tops from the scallions and reserve them as well.
Arrange the ginger trimmings and scallion tops on a heatproof plate to form a bed for the salmon. This elevates the fish slightly and allows steam to circulate underneath it.
Thinly slice the remaining scallions lengthwise or on a sharp bias. Cut the peeled ginger into thin planks, stack them, and slice into fine julienne. Combine the sliced scallions, julienned ginger, sliced garlic, and cilantro leaves and fine stems in a bowl of ice water or in a salad spinner filled with cold water. Let soak while the fish cooks.
Check the salmon for pin bones by running your fingers along the center line of the fillet. Pull any bones out with fish tweezers or clean pliers, pulling in the direction the bones are angled to avoid tearing the flesh.
Place the salmon skin-side down over the ginger and scallion bed. Insert a probe thermometer into the thickest part of the fish at an angle if using.
Transfer the plate to the steamer, cover, and steam until the center reaches 105°F (41°C) for medium-rare, about 7 minutes depending on thickness. For more fully cooked salmon, continue to 115 to 120°F (46 to 49°C).
Meanwhile, combine the soy sauce, rice wine, water, and sugar in a small bowl and stir until the sugar mostly dissolves.
Remove the salmon from the steamer. Carefully slide a spatula between the skin and flesh to separate the skin if desired, blot the salmon by lowering it onto a paper towel (leave it on the spatula), then transfer the salmon to a serving plate.
Drain and thoroughly dry the soaked aromatics. Spoon the sauce over the fish, then pile about half the aromatics on top along with the sliced chile.
Heat the neutral oil in a wok or small saucepan until lightly smoking. Carefully pour the hot oil directly over the aromatics on the fish. They should sizzle aggressively and become intensely fragrant.
Top with the remaining fresh aromatics and serve immediately with rice.
Notes - What I love about this recipe:
The entire thing cooks in about 10 minutes.
Steaming keeps salmon incredibly juicy.
The ginger-scallion salad gives freshness, crunch, and aroma all at once.
It feels elegant enough for guests but easy enough for a Tuesday.
