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4 ounces rice vermicelli (see headnote)

⅔ cup fish sauce

½ cup white sugar

3 tablespoons lime juice, plus lime wedges to serve

2 medium shallots, halved and thinly sliced

4 medium garlic cloves, finely grated

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1 medium English cucumber, halved lengthwise, seeded and cut into 2-inch matchsticks or 2 carrots cut i to 2 inch matchsticks

1 red pepper, seeded and cut into matchsticks

1 lb shrimp, peeled, deveined, and boiled until just tender

2 Fresno OR jalapeño chilies, stemmed, seeded and thinly sliced

¼ cup salted, roasted peanuts, chopped

1 cup lightly packed fresh basil OR mint OR a combination, torn if large

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1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the vermicelli, stir to combine and turn off the heat. Let stand until the noodles are fully tender, about 3 minutes. Drain in a colander, rinse under running cold running water until completely cooled, then drain again. Transfer to a medium bowl. If the noodles are very long, use kitchen shears to snip them into more manageable lengths.

2. In a small saucepan, combine the fish sauce and sugar. Bring to a boil over medium, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and stir in the lime juice, shallot, garlic and 1 teaspoon pepper. Pour the mixture over the noodles, then add the cucumbers, carrots, and red peppers. Toss to combine, then let stand, tossing occasionally, for about 15 minutes.

3. Add the cooked shrimp, chilies and peanuts; toss to combine. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Toss in the herbs then transfer to a serving dish. Serve with lime wedges.

Leftover sauce can be used to brine carrots, cucumbers, and peppers, or other vegetables.