Start by cooking the rice using your preferred method, or get out your leftover cooked rice.

Make the tofu: Wrap the tofu in a thin dish towel and gently squeeze with your palms to remove some water but don’t squish it. Using the large holes of a box grater, grate the tofu. If small pieces break off, slice them very thinly.

In a large nonstick skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. After a minute or two, add the scallions, chiles (if using) and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic is slightly golden and the scallions are softened, about 2 minutes.

Add the grated tofu to the pan and toss to coat it in the oil. Cook undisturbed for 2 minutes, then stir. Cook, stirring every 2 minutes, until the tofu is golden brown in some spots, a total of 10 to 14 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the sauce: In a small bowl, whisk together the tamari, vinegar, sugar, gochugaru and sesame oil until well combined.

Pour the sauce into the pan — it will bubble rapidly — and stir with a silicone spatula to evenly coat the tofu. Cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and sprinkle with the sesame seeds.

Serve over cooked rice and top with the reserved scallion tops and cilantro. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the fridge for 4 to 5 days.

Tips: Super-firm tofu or 'high-protein' tofu makes for a very convincing meat substitute, but if you don’t have it, use extra-firm tofu and press for 10 minutes; grate the tofu, then dab with towels to remove water. Don’t have gochugaru? Sub with 1 to 1½ teaspoons of Sichuan chile flakes or sriracha.

Tips: Most Chinese black vinegar is fermented with grains. Substitute 2 parts rice vinegar to 1 part aged balsamic vinegar.