Gâteau de Cuisse de Poulette aux Pommes de Terre et aux Artichauts

(Chicken, Potato, and Artichoke Cake)

SERVES 6

This recipe from Paula Wolfert's The Cooking of Southwest France is based on one for a dish called gâteau de Père Lathuile. Though invented by a 19th-century restaurateur outside Paris, it is southwestern in character and was a specialty at the famous Toulouse restaurant Vanel.

1 lb. purple eggplant, peeled and cut into 1" chunks

Coarse kosher salt

6 skinned and boned chicken thighs, trimmed of excess fat, at room temperature

Freshly ground pepper

⅓ cup rendered duck fat or clarified butter (see page 88)

1 cup finely diced ventrèche (see page 88) or pancetta

1 cup cubed (½") blanched fresh or thawed frozen artichoke bottoms

⅓ cup dry white wine

⅓ cup unsalted chicken stock

3 tbsp. minced fresh chives

2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves

Juice of ½ lemon

Pinch of sugar

1 tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tsp. finely chopped fresh garlic

2 lbs. russet potatoes

2 tbsp. olive oil

Coarse sea salt

potato and cook until just pliable, 2-3 minutes. Arrange a generous third of

1. Sprinkle the eggplant with 1 ½ tbsp. coarse salt and let stand for at least 2 hours. Rinse the eggplant chunks under running water; squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Do not worry about maintaining the shape; you should have about 1 cup dry clumps of eggplant.

2. Season chicken thighs with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tbsp. of duck fat or clarified butter in a medium skillet, preferably nonstick, over moderate heat. Add ventrèche and brown lightly [then remove from pan]. Raise heat and, working in batches, add chicken and sear 30 seconds to a side; transfer to a platter to cool. Then cut each thigh into 6 pieces. Add artichokes to hot skillet and cook, stirring, with pan juices until just golden around edges, 1-2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer artichokes to a bowl. Pour off fat. Deglaze skillet with a little white wine and stock and boil down to a syrupy glaze. Scrape into bowl with artichokes. Add chicken, chives, thyme, and 1 tbsp. of lemon juice. Season with 1 tsp. salt and ½ tsp. pepper and toss lightly to mix. Cover and set aside.

3. Preheat oven to 450°. Heat 2 tbsp. duck fat in a large nonstick skillet over moderate heat. Add the eggplant, cover, and cook, turning clumps from time to time, until they begin to plump up, feel tender, and turn golden brown, about 10 minutes. At this point, reduce heat to low, add a pinch of sugar, and slowly cook, uncovered, turning pieces of eggplant often, for 5 minutes. Add the chopped parsley and garlic and continue to cook, turning often, for another 5-8 minutes, or until eggplant has a glowing, bronzed, moist appearance. Set aside on paper towels to absorb any excess fat.

4. Peel potatoes, halve lengthwise, and cut into long thin slices. Wash well to remove their starch and pat dry with paper towels. In same skillet used to cook eggplant, set olive oil over moderate heat. Working in batches, add potato slices, overlapping, in bottom of a buttered, 9" straight-sided cast- iron skillet, copper tarte tatin pan, or 6- or 7-cup shallow ovenproof baking dish. Cover with chicken, pancetta, artichokes, and eggplant. Arrange remaining potatoes on top and cover with sheet of foil. Crimp foil against edge of pan to seal tightly. Bake in center of oven for 20 minutes. Remove foil, press pie down, and continue baking, uncovered, for 30 minutes longer. Brush top with remaining duck fat and place under broiler, 1-2 minutes.