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HOUSE BLACK DAAL
This creamy black daal – our version of a daal makhani – is perhaps Dishoom’s signature dish. It hasn’t changed in all the years we’ve been cooking it and it’s still the first thing Naved checks on entering any of our kitchens, where each batch is lovingly cooked over 24 hours. In smaller quantities, it requires 4–5 hours of your attention, but your efforts will be richly rewarded and you’ll make it time and again.
Cooking daal isn’t necessarily about exact timings but it is about knowing what to look for at each stage. It is vital to cook the daal grains completely at step 2, and to be vigilant during step 5. It takes quite a long time for the “sauce” to thicken and become creamy – you must watch the pan closely to ensure it doesn’t stick and you must stir the pot frequently.
SERVES 8–10
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TO SERVE
Put the daal into a large bowl, cover with water and whisk for 10 seconds. Let the daal settle, then pour out the water. Repeat 3 or 4 times, until the water is clear.
Tip the daal into a large saucepan and pour in at least 4 litres cold water. Bring to the boil and cook steadily for 2–3 hours. Skim off any impurities that rise to the surface, and add more boiling water as required to keep the grains well covered. The daal grains need to become completely soft, with the skins coming away from the white grain. When pressed, the white part should be creamy, rather than crumbly. When cooked, turn off the heat and allow the pan to sit for 15 minutes.
In a bowl, mix the garlic and ginger pastes, tomato purée, salt, chilli powder and garam masala to a paste.
Carefully pour off the daal cooking water then pour on enough freshly boiled water to cover the daal by 3–4cm. Bring to the boil over a medium-high heat and add the aromatic paste and butter. Cook rapidly for 30 minutes, stirring regularly to prevent the “mixture from sticking.
Lower the heat and simmer for 1–1½ hours, stirring very regularly to prevent it from sticking and adding a little boiling water if the liquid level gets near the level of the grains. Eventually, it will become thick and creamy. The creaminess must come from the grains disintegrating into the liquid and enriching it, not from the water being allowed to evaporate leaving only the grains behind.
Add the cream and cook for a further 15 minutes. Serve with chapatis or other Indian breads.
Note: When reheating any leftover daal (well, one can but hope!), you may need to add a little more liquid; use cream or cream and water, rather than water alone.