One day ahead: Put your raisins and sultanas together into a bowl, pour in just enough water to cover and leave overnight to soak. The following day drain them in a sieve and pat dry the surface with kitchen paper. Add the peel and mix together, set aside.

Making the dough: In a large bowl whisk together your milk, egg and yeast until the yeast has softened. Add the flour, sugar, salt and spice. Mix together with your dough scraper until there is no dry flour left. Then, dimple in the butter with your fingertips.

Tip your dough out onto the table and knead for 10 minutes. It will be sticky and a little buttery but resist the urge to dust with flour. Instead use your dough scraper to clean up every once in a while. Rest your dough under an upturned bowl for 5-10 minutes to make the next part easier.

Incorporating the fruit: Dust your dough lightly and use a rolling pin to roll it into a 30cm circle. Sprinkle over half of your filling mixture and fold it inside in thirds; bottom third up, top third down and over the top of the first. Press with your fingertips into a rectangle and turn the dough 90 degrees so it is portrait to you. Sprinkle over the second half of the fruit and dimple in slightly. This time roll up your dough from the top edge into a sausage with the fruit inside. Cup and turn the dough to round it into a ball shape and place into your bowl. Cover the bowl with another upturned bowl or clingfilm and rest for 90-120 minutes.

Dividing and shaping: Line a large baking tray with parchment paper. Weigh your dough as a whole and divide the weight by 12 if you’d like to get your buns all the same size. Flatten the dough slightly and cut it with the flat side of your scraper into 12 pieces. Fold and roll your dough pieces into balls and place them onto your tray. Cover with dusted cling film and rest for another 90-120 minutes or until they have puffed up nicely.

While you wait you have three jobs to do: 1. Mix up the ingredients for your cross mixture and put into a small piping bag. 2. Put your marmalade into a small bowl and mix with a spoon to loosen. 3. Preheat the oven to 180C fan/356F/Gas Mark 6 with a deep roasting tray in the bottom and a shelf in the middle for baking.

Piping and Baking: Boil half a kettle of water. Carefully pipe your crosses on the top of each bun and place them in the oven. Pour the water carefully into the tray beneath and bake for 20-25 minutes.

Glazing: Transfer your buns to a wire rack and use a pastry brush to paint all over with marmalade. Let them cool for as long as you can bare it. Split and eat, spread with plenty of salty butter.