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Peel, core, and roughly chop your apples, then add them straight into a large, heavy-based pan along with the cider, sugar, spices, vanilla, salt, and lemon juice and zest, giving everything a good stir so the apples are well coated.
Place over a medium heat and bring to a gentle simmer, allowing the sugar to melt and the apples to begin releasing their juices until the whole mixture smells warm and fragrant.
Turn the heat down low and let it bubble away gently for 1.5–2 hours, stirring every so often, until the apples are completely soft and collapsing into a thick, chunky purée.
Take it off the heat and blend until smooth, then return it to a low heat and continue cooking, stirring more regularly now to stop it catching on the bottom, as it slowly thickens and darkens into that deep, rich brown.
Keep going until it becomes glossy and spreadable, holding its shape on a spoon and leaving a trail when you drag it through.
Let it cool slightly before spooning into clean jars, it will thicken a little more as it cools.