Make the dough: Mix the warm milk, yeast and sugar. Stir in the melted butter, salt and 2 cups (250 g) of flour. Knead by hand for 5 to 8 minutes until elastic, adding extra flour a tablespoon at a time only if needed. The dough should feel soft and slightly tacky.

Let it rise: Place in a lightly oiled bowl, cover and leave somewhere warm for 60 to 90 minutes, or until doubled.

Soften the garlic: Cover the peeled cloves with olive oil in a small ovenproof dish. Cover with foil and bake at 325°F (160°C) for 45 to 60 minutes, until easily mashed. Alternatively, use a small saucepan on the stove over the lowest heat for about 30 to 40 minutes, stirring occasionally and keeping the oil barely bubbling. Lift out the softened cloves with a slotted spoon and cool slightly.

Make the coating: Mash the garlic with the softened butter and 1 tablespoon of the garlic cooking oil. Stir in the parsley, oregano, black pepper and optional chili flakes. Taste and add salt if needed. The mixture should be loose enough to coat the dough but no longer hot.

Shape and coat: Grease a 9 × 5 inch (23 × 13 cm) loaf pan and line it with parchment, leaving an overhang. Gently deflate the dough and divide into 24 similar pieces. Roll into balls, coat each in the garlic butter, then roll in the Parmesan. Arrange loosely in two layers. Spoon any remaining garlic butter mixture over the top.

Rise again: Cover and leave for 30 to 45 minutes, until noticeably puffy. Toward the end, preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).

Bake: Uncover the pan and bake at 350°F (175°C), checking after 30 minutes. Continue until golden and cooked through in the center; a loaf pan may need 40 to 50 minutes total. Cover loosely with foil if the top browns too quickly.

Serve: Rest in the pan for 10 minutes, lift out with the parchment and finish with a little fresh parsley. Serve warm and pull off the pieces.