Drain the mushrooms, saving the soaking water, and roughly chop.

Heat the oil in a frying pan and cook the ginger and garlic for a minute, then stir in the five spice.

Stir-fry for 30 seconds, then add the vegetables, mushrooms and about two tablespoons of the mushroom water.

Cook, uncovered, until the water has evaporated and the vegetables have softened.

Stir in the oyster and soy sauce and the sesame oil and cook for another minute, then allow to cool.

Stir in the pork and chives once completely cool.

Lay a wrapper, one corner facing you, on a clean work surface and cover the remaining pile with a damp cloth.

Have a bowl of cold water within reach.

Put two teaspoons of filling in an oblong just below the middle, leaving a gap at each end.

Fold the bottom point over the top of the filling.

Roll it up to the middle of the sheet, then fold the sides in over the top, wetting them slightly so they stick.

Wet the top point, then roll up tightly.

Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling.

Heat a wok or large pan a third full of neutral oil to 180C/355F, or until tiny bubbles gather around a dipped chopstick.

Fry the spring rolls in batches of three or four, for about five minutes each, turning occasionally, until golden and crisp.

Drain on kitchen paper and serve hot with black vinegar and chilli oil, sweet chilli sauce, or Worcestershire sauce.