Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas mark 6.

Wash the pumpkin, then cut off some skin from one end so it will sit firmly on a board.

Use a Y-shaped peeler or sharp knife to remove the rest of the skin and put the trimmings in a medium saucepan.

Cut the pumpkin into quarters, then remove the seeds (and the flesh around them).

Add all but a spoonful of the seeds to the pan with the skin, and set aside the rest for now.

Cut the flesh into large, evenly sized cubes and put these on a baking tray.

Drizzle the cubes with a little oil and toss with a little salt.

Bake for about 40 minutes, until soft and beginning to brown.

Wash the reserved spoonful of pumpkin seeds, if necessary, to remove any flesh clinging to them, then blot dry.

Put the seeds on a fresh tray and toss with a little oil and salt, then put them in the oven for the last 10 minutes of the pumpkin cooking time.

While the pumpkin is cooking, put the stock in the peelings pan and bring to a boil, then turn down the heat and simmer gently for 30 minutes.

Put two tablespoons of oil in a large saucepan on a medium-low heat, then add the onion, celery, carrots and a good pinch of salt, and fry until soft but not brown.

Stir in the chilli, if using, and fry for another minute.

Stir the roast pumpkin cubes into the soup base, then strain in the pumpkin-skin stock.

Bring to a simmer and cook for about 10 minutes, or until the pumpkin is very soft.

Puree with a stick blender or in a jug blender, then taste and adjust the seasoning.

If serving with browned butter, heat the butter until golden, stir in the sage and decant immediately.

Serve the soup topped with cheese, a grating of nutmeg, a drizzle of the brown butter and sage or oil, and a few roasted seeds.