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If using lump crabmeat, skip to step 2. For fresh crabs, place steamer basket in a large pot; fill pot with water until water line is just below bottom of steamer basket, about 1 to 2 inches deep. Bring to a boil over high. Add crabs; cover and steam until shells turn bright orange, 18 to 20 minutes. Fill a large bowl with ice and water. Let crabs cool in ice bath 10 minutes. Remove crabmeat. Place 1 ⅓ cups crabmeat in a bowl; set aside. (Reserve any remaining crabmeat for another use.)
Melt ½ cup butter in a medium saucepan over low. Add crabmeat to butter in pan; bring to a simmer over low, stirring often. Add garlic; increase heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring, about 2 minutes. Stir in nutmeg; transfer crab mixture to a small bowl.
Cook bucatini according to package directions for al dente. Meanwhile, heat fish sauce, vinegar, and pepper in a large skillet over medium. Add ½ cup reserved crab mixture, and cook, stirring, until sauce comes to a simmer. Turn off heat.
Drain pasta; reserve 3 tablespoons pasta cooking liquid. Add bucatini and reserved cooking liquid to skillet; cook over medium-high, stirring constantly, 1 minute. Turn off heat. Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons cubed butter until melted. Fold in remaining crab mixture.